Road to Moyta

Abancay to Soras

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From Abancay my route continues towards a nice historic town of Vilcashuaman. In principle there is a semi-direct road to Uranmarca and then to Vilcashuaman. However, Pikes' extensive notes mention that this road is missing a bridge over a major river. As the notes were written some time ago I tried to do my extensive research but failed to ascertain (with enough confidence) the existence of the bridge -- I found a document indicating that the authorities signed building the bridge in 2016. But I was unable to find any news of its completion. Defeated by my shortcut-planning failure I had to revert to good old Pikes' route which makes a bit of a detour.

August 6

In the morning I visit Cruz del Sur again, this time re-sending my unnecessary crap to Huancayo. Next is a breakfast and then I am finally ready to start a long day.

I first get back from Abancay to the gas station where I tried to fix my flat. The descent is whizzing fast and in no time I find myself back in need of pedalling. Fortunately, the ascent is very gentle (and undulating). Adding to it a fact that all of it is nicely paved, my average speed is surprisingly fast. The scenery is also better than expected -- the road, which goes in a long and sometimes steep valley, is surrounded by rocky mountains. And with a blowing wind the heat is survivable as well.

The road goes inside a valley
The views change but not really change
As I progress the sides of the valley become more rocky
For a while the valley floor widens ...
... but not for long

With my unexpected great speed I end up in Santa Rosa at 3pm -- sooner than expected. After a short pondering I decide that until the evening comes I can go up to the next village. Unfortunately, my guesstimate that there would be a hospedaje is off. Instead, I end up getting water and continuing just a bit after the village where a short side-road gets me a bit off-the-eyes and noise of the road.

I cycle past big rock towers
If it wasn't for the occasional wind I would be probably spending most of the time cooling down in the river
After Santa Rosa the road switches sides with the river

August 7

With warm and dry morning I quikly pack my tent and start cycling. The plan is to cycle past Zañayca to about 3600-3800m so that tomorrow I can reach Autuma.

Similarly to yesterday, the road is paved with gentle climb. I stop by in Chachapuente to quickly restock snacks. From there I finish the last few kilometers of a pavement -- all in all I did about 20 easy and fast kilometers. This changes when the unpavged road to Zañayca branches off from the main road and heads steeply uphill.

I resume cycling on the paved road of yesterday
It doesn't take long and the pavement is exchanged for an unpaved climb

As I climb uphill the views are slowly opening revealing how deep the valley is. With the time progressing my stomach starts to show unhappiness. Zañayca being a village with a few streets on the open street map I expected it to have a restaurant. But in the village I learn that there is nothing of that sort so I end up eating through my lunch provisions.

As I slowly gain altitude ...
... the views are opening
But there is still a lot to climb
The mountains here are relatively dry

The road from Zañayca continues steeply and I slowly gain elevation. The views open even more and by the evening I see undulating high-altitude country -- by the time I setup the camp I am already at 3850m of altitude with just 200m left until the pass for tomorrow. Evening dinner is a bit of a culinary excursion -- I finally open a can of sardinas I was bringing all the way from Argentina (I kept it as a backup food in case I somehow run out of other options). Together with a tomato sauce and olivas my "gourmet" tastes are satisfied.

I pass around another small village ...
... and slowly approach the pass
The views are so different from the canyon which is only a few kilometers (of direct distance) away

August 8

I quickly finish the rest of the yesterday's climb. This is followed by a mostly gentle descent to Moyta decorated with nice views as I descent into a canyon.

Waiting for the tent to dry ...
Compared to yesterday's deep valleys the scenery looks quite "flat"
I quickly finish the climb
I now have 700m of descent down to the valley
The descent is generally quite gentle
The last part of the descent is getting into this canyon (although not in this direction)
The landscape is surprisingly bumpy around here
Almost at the lowpoint
Final downhill to Moyta

After Moyta the road starts to undulate with a small climb and then descent to Larcay. But I celebrated reaching Larcay a bit prematurely. About 3km before the village I am getting another flat. Damn Maxxis tyres, I want my old puncture-proof Schwalbe at the back! Fortunately, this time I don't need to patch the tire right at the spot and I just change it for a spare one.

Just a bit after Moyta I come across this huge waterfall. It is a shame that I did not find a trail towards it
After Moyta the river cuts deeply into the mountain
But that doesn't mean I climbed up the big canyon
It is around this point that I notice I contracted another flat

When delayed and hungry I finally reach Larcay the mission is clear -- find a restaurant. Locals tell me that there is one at Baños (e.g., lots of downhill) and other I already passed. But there should be one more. And certainly, at the very end of the village, just next to the school there is a hunger-saving place. And they still have lunch for me.

The country somewhat reminds me of Croatia
But Croatia doesn't have these deep valleys

With my delayed arrival to Larcay it becomes clear that Autuma is out of rech for today. Instead, I cycle until Soras, find a second hospedaje (because the first was closed) and instantly launch into fixing the puncture tube. Next is the usual scouting of shops but there doesn't seem to be any fancy contraband. Still, they have cookies so I can't really complain.


Loading map...

Download simplified GPX of a route here

Stats by activity:

Activity Distance
Pedal rotations
bike 169 2.7 37
Stats by day:
Date Distance
Avg. temp
(moving, C)
Aug. 6, 2017 80.2 0.63 29.1
Aug. 7, 2017 41.2 1.49 24.9
Aug. 8, 2017 47.3 0.60 20.9

Elevation data

Loading graph...
(drag over a region to zoom in, right-click reset)

The next table is only for cycling activity.

Grade(%)Ascent (km)Descent(km)
< 2 66.5
< 4 21.5 8.8
< 6 6.6 7.6
< 8 6.0 2.9
< 10 3.5 1.1
≥ 10 1.9 1.8

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